Vienna Travel Guide - Exploring the Heart of Imperial Europe
There are not many cities that represent the imperial time and grandeur in Europe the way Vienna does. As the former capital of the Austrian-Hungarian empire its influences stretched over most of what is today Central Europe, Eastern Europe and the Balkans. The cultural mix from these past times is still visible today.
Vianna makes a great weekend escape or stop-over on your way to Budapest, Prague or Italy. One of the best times to visit is before Christmas, when you can enjoy some mulled wine at one of the many Christmas markets and enjoy the Christmas lights in the city. With this blog I hope I can help you with your trael planning for your next trip and to make the most out of it with some tips for off-the-beaten-track places.
Travelling to Vienna
For those preparing their trip to Vienna as a stop while in Europe the most convenient and easy way is to arrive by train. The Austrian Railway company ӦBB runs now most of the Night trains in Central Europe and uses Vienna as its main hub.
Vienna has two major train stations: the Wien Hauptbahnhof (Vienna Central Station) and Wien Westbahnhof (Vienna West Train Station). At Wien Haupthahnhof most domestic and international trains arrive, if you take ӦBB’s Railjet from Munich (travel time around 4 hours), Prague (4-4.5 hours), Budapest (2.5-3 hours) or Zurich (around 8 hours), you will arrive here. Wien Westbahnhof serves more regional and domestic routes, with few international ones.
From Wien Hauptbahnhof you can take either subway (U-Bahn) line U1 (Red Line) to the city centre or Trams D, O or 18 to get to the rest of town. U1 gets you straight to Stephansplatz.
From Wien Westbahnhof you can also take the subway line U3 (Orange Line) to Stephansplatz or tram 6, 9, 18 or 49 to other parts of the city.
If the train is not an option for you, you can also fly into Vienna. Vienna International Airport (VIE) is a major hub within Lufthansa Group and the main base for Austrian Airlines. On top there are plenty of other airlines, including low-cost airlines like Ryanair or Wizz Air, that get you here from intercontinental, international and regional destinations. To get to the city centre you have various options. The cheapest and most convenient is by train (take either S7 to Wien Mitte or any other train from the airport to Wien Hauptbahnhof) and will take you 15-25mins. There’s also a specific airport express train called CAT (City Airport Train) which runs non-stop to/from Wien Mitte and takes around 15mins. The CAT tickets you can buy in advance to save a bit on the costs. Another option is the bus (Vienna Airport Lines) that connect the airport to Westbahnhof, Schwedenplatz and the Vienna International Bus Terminal (VIB). Taxis and private transfers are also options, but not the cheapest ones.
What to do
For a city with the history of Vienna it is no surprise that there’s a lot to see and do. In your itinerary planning, don’t miss the cultural mix that Vienna offers through its architecture and history. The main sights in this area are the Hofburg and the St. Stephen’s Cathedral, with many attractions close by.
Exploring Hofburg and St. Stephen’s Cathedral
The Hofburg palace is the former imperial residence of the Habsburg family and still one of the biggest palace complexes in the world. It is now a museum which includes the Sisi Museum, the Imperial Apartments and the Imperial Treasury. Linked to the Hofburg you also have the seat of the Austrian president, the Spanish Horse-Riding School, the National Library and the Albertina Museum. Make sure you visit the Prunksaal (State Hall) of the National Library. It is the largest Baroque library hall with over 200,000 books, some incredible Venetian globes and impressive murals on the ceiling.
Walking down Kohlmarkt and the Graben from the palace you get to Stephansplatz with the majestic St. Stephen’s Cathedral. If you have time, then stop at Demel for cake and coffee. In Graben you will also pass the Pestsӓule (Plague Pillar) which commemorates the victims of the plague.
Once you arrive at Stephansplatz enjoy the view on the cathedral with its colourful tiled roof and towering spires. The interior is beautiful and worth a visit, and if you feel like go down the catacombs where remains of many bishops and royals are kept. More interesting though is to climb up one of the towers (preferably the South tower) for some breath-taking panoramic views of the city. If you are hungry after your climb stop by Buffet Trzesniewski in Dorotheergasse or have a coffee across the buffet at Café Hawlka (my absolute favourite place in Vienna).
Must see Museums in Vienna
If you’re an art lover or just need an activity inside (due to bad weather) head to the Kunsthistorisches Museum, south-west of the Hofburg across Burgring. For me it’s one of the most impressive museums, not just due to the art but also its architecture. The main staircase is perfect for those that love photography. In the museum itself you find a vast collection of paintings, sculptures and artifacts from various periods and regions (check the Egyptian and Near East collection). Opposite the museum you have the Naturhistorisches Museum (Natural History Museum), which is perfect if you’re travelling with kids. A bit further south you have the MuseumsQuartier which houses the Mumok (museum for modern art) and the Leopold Museum with pieces from Klimt and Kokoschka. It’s also beautifully light up at night.
Government buildings worth to visit in Vienna
Following the Burgring from the Hofburg you will reach the Austrian Parliament and a bit further the Rathausplatz with the city hall. There are many tours for the Parliament (free of charge, you only need a photo ID to get in) in German, English, Spanish and French. There’s also a daily Foto-tour. The building is newly renovated and has some great rooms which you can only visit as part of a tour. You can also make your way up to the roof for a great view of the Hofburg and the cathedral. The Rathaus (city hall) is another building not to be missed. It still serves as an administrative office, and you can easily get inside to get a glimpse of the grandeur and its astonishing staircases. But to see the rooms and halls you will have to join a tour. In front of the city hall there are usually some events, including an open-air cinema in the summer and the main Christmas market in December.
Wandering and exploring palaces outside the city center - Belvedere and Schönbrunn
A bit further from the centre of town you have two intriguing palaces: the Belvedere and Schloss Schönbrunn. Belevedere is close to the Hauptbahnhof and is enclosed by a large park. The baroque palace is made up of the Orangery and the Gallery that houses famous paintings from Klimt (The Kiss), Schiele, Kokoschka and others. From the park you have an awesome view over the city. And don’t miss out on the fountains and somewhat strange Sphinx sculptures while walking in the garden. At the bottom of the park, you have a little brewery, Salm Brӓu, where you can relax and recover.
In the far southwest of Vienna you’ll find Schloss Schönbrunn, which is the former summer residence of the imperial family. Stroll through the massive garden to find waterfalls, artificial roman ruins and the Gloriette on the top of a small hill. From the Gloriette again you have a beautiful view of Vienna. If you’re travelling with children, stop by the zoo with over 700 species of animals.
Travelling off the beaten track in Vienna
For a bit more of an off-the-beaten-track experience make sure you check out the Naschmarkt, the Vienna State Opera, the Zentralfriedhof and the Prater.
The Naschmarkt is the biggest open-air market in Vienna. Back in the days it focused mainly on fresh produces and spices. You can still find some of those especially if you’re looking for some high-end gourmet food, but these days most stalls got converted to restaurants. On Saturdays you also have a flea market and around the market there are plenty of antiques shops. Close to the beginning of the Naschmarkt you’ll find the Secession, a contemporary art gallery with a dome of gold gilded laurels. A bit more to the northeast of the Secession you have the Karlsdom with some impressive pillars next to the entrance. The square in front is perfect to catch a breath and relax.
The Vienna State Opera is a renowned opera house designed and planned by Viennese architect August Sicard von Sicardsburg. The interior is breathtaking and if you have time not only take a tour, but also enjoy a ballet or an opera. You won’t regret it. Behind the opera building you have the famous Sacher Hotel with the even more famous Café Sacher. If you have the patience and time queue up to try the legendary Sachertorte.
I’ve been many times in Vienna, but only at the last visit I made it to the Zentralfriedhof. If you read some of my previous blogs (especially for New York City, Boston or Milan) I do enjoy visiting cemeteries as they offer some great photo opportunities. The central cemetery of Vienna doesn’t disappoint in this regard and on top you can visit the graves of musical and intellectual giants as Mozart, Beethoven, Schubert and Freud. The main entrance is at Gate 2 (Tor 2).
For families travelling with kids or those of us that still have an inner-child head over to the Prater. It’s a huge amusement park close to the river with a giant Ferris wheel (dating back to 1897), some fun rollercoasters, a planetarium and a Madame Tussauds wax museum. The Prater is also fun at night and especially the Ferris Wheel is a very romantic setting at this time of the day.
If you haven’t had enough of churches yet with the St. Stephen’s Cathedral and the Karlsdom, there are two more beautiful churches you might want to visit: the Votivkirche and Jesuitenkirche. The Votivkirche is a neo-gothic church build in the 19th century close to the University of Vienna. The Jesuitenkirche is best known for the impressive interior and is free to enter.
Where to stay
When it comes to accommodation planning for first-time visitors, staying either in the 1st District or the 4th District is the most convenient option. Those are quite central and allow you to explore the city and its many sights.
Another good option is close to the train stations, either Wien Hauptbahnhof or Westbahnhof. Especially if Vienna is only a stop-over for you and you continue with the train those two areas are ideal.
I also like to stay in the Neubau District (7th District) with its many bars and restaurants. Perfect for those looking for some nightlife.
Food & Drinks
As mentioned at the beginning Vienna was and is influenced by the many cultures that formed part of the Austrian-Hungarian Empire, and food is no exception.
Typical local dishes to try
The most iconic dish which even has the city in its name is the Wiener Schnitzel. It’s a classic dish of thinly sliced veal (original) or pork coated with breadcrumbs and then fried. In almost every restaurant you will find it and it’s good everywhere. But if you want to try the original head to Figlmüller (serving Schnitzel since 1905). There are few locations, but it’s better to make a reservation to avoid queuing for hours. Another alternative that I love to go to as it’s served many variations of Schnitzel is the Schnitzelwirt in the Neubaugasse. Other good options are the Pulkautaler Winehouse and Restaurant or Zum Alten Fassl. During high-season it’s always a good idea to make a reservation in any restaurant.
Other typical dishes you should try while in Vienna is the Tafelspitz, boiled beef with root vegetables and horseradish sauce, or Gulasch (not to be mixed up with the Hungarian dish). For Tafelspitz check one of the many Plachutta locations. For Gulasch head over to Bettelstudent or Steman. All are great options and have a cozy atmosphere.
If you need a snack or just want to have a light lunch I recommend stopping by Buffet Tresniewski. They have few locations with the one in Dorotheergasse (just opposite Café Hawelka, other locations are in Mariahilfer Strasse and Westbahnhof) being my favourite one. The slices of bread with the different spreads are super delicious and as they are fairly small you can try many different ones. Another option for these little sandwiches is Duran in Mariahilfer Strasse.
Sweets and Coffee culture in Vienna
For dessert try the infamous Apfelstrudel or the Sachertorte. The Apfelstrudel is a stable in any of the above restaurants and you can also find them in coffee houses like Café Hawelka, Café Central or Café Schwarzenberg. For the Sachertorte make your way either to the birthplace of this cake Café Sacher or the former imperial bakery Demel.
The favourite pastime activity of locals is to enjoy a coffee at one of the many Coffee houses in town. My go-to place is Café Hawelka. It’s a family run café (third generation) that is as well a meeting spot for artist and writers. They even roast their own coffee, which you can take home as a souvenir. Café Demel, Café Central, or Café Schwarzenberg are great options as well, but unfortunately they are super popular which results in long queues and hours of wait time.
Try some local beers and wines
If you’re looking for some good beer, check out Siebensternbräu in the Siebensterngasse. They brew seven different types of beers including unique ones like Rauchbier or Chilibeer. The food there is good as well. In summer make sure to sit in the beer garden. Salm Bräu is another small Brewpub in Vienna and is close to Belvedere. Their beer and food are awesome and again in the summer enjoy their beer garden. The main beer brand of Vienna is Ottakringer, this is brewed in their brewery in the Ottakring District. The place now includes a beer garden as well and some beers you might not get in other places. Unfortunately, the food options are limited.
If you prefer wine to beer, make sure to visit some Heuriger. A Heuriger is lovely, rustic wine tavern where you can try some of the newest wines. 10er Marie is one of the oldest in Vienna and for sure not easy to get into. But if you can always make a quick stop here for a G’spritzte (white wine with sparkling water).
Travelling around Vienna
Almost all the sights and attractions in Vienna are well connected by Public Transport. The network is extensive and includes subway, trams and busses. If you stay close to the city centre or at one of the train stations your best options are the subway or the tram. Subways are bit more convenient, reliable and faster than the trams. You can get single tickets or day/multi-day passes that are valid across the different modes of transportation.
Best Photography Spots in Vienna
For some great views and photos of the city climb up one of the towers of St. Stephen’s Cathedral, climb the hill to the Gloriette in Schloss Schönbrunn or visit the Park surrounding the Belvedere palace.
For a stunning perspective of the National Library and the Kunsthistorische Museum go to the Heldenplatz (Hero Square). At night the National Library is beautiful from the exit of the Volksgarten at the west end of the Heldenplatz. Another good option is from the Burggarten.
The Zentralfriedhof provides more unique photo opportunities, including graves by the likes of Mozart, Beethoven or Freud.
I hope with all the above, I could help you with your planning for your trip to Vienna. Feel free to leave a comment below or reach out to me.
Here a link to my Vienna site which hopefully gives you some ideas what to expect.
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